Ischia - Italy’s green island
Spending a couple of weeks on Ischia is the perfect way to disconnect and get back into the rhythm of island life.
Off the coast of Naples, Ischia has a raw, unpolished vibe that feels worlds away from its glitzier sister, Capri, or the colorful postcard that is Procida. Perfectly doable for an island-jumping day trip but so worth staying a couple of nights to get to experience the nostalgic charm of the island to the fullest.
Ischia feels lived-in. There are still tourists, sure, but beyond the main harbor towns, it’s mostly locals and Napolitans enjoying their slice of paradise. The kind of place that invites you to slow down, throw any itinerary out the window, and appreciate the day as it comes, the Italian way.
Speaking of not being on a time schedule—getting around Ischia turned out to be part of the adventure.
We rented two scooters, which was hands down the best decision. The roads are narrow and twisty, but with a scooter, it’s easy to stop whenever you spot something interesting—whether it’s a roadside pop-up vegetable store, a vineyard, or to soak in the shimmering coastline.
The buses are a more budget-friendly option, but they come with a steep learning curve.
First, you need to make sure to buy tickets at a tabaccheria (marked with a T-sign out front) or kiosk before boarding (We learned that the hard way). And while the routes do cover the whole island, the rides can be long and crowded, with plenty of stops, and no air-con. Still, it’s a great way to experience the lively atmosphere, complete with overheard conversations, grocery bags, luggage, and the occasional shout to the driver.
There are taxis, yes (without taximeter), but as soon as they catch a whiff that you’re not local, be prepared to cough up some extra Euros.
There’s the occasional “tourist price”—whether it’s a taxi or a boat beach shuttle, and it seems to be increasing year after year.
The main house at Residence San Domenico
When we arrived in Forio, we settled into a charming, family-run accommodation surrounded by its own vineyard and a garden brimming with fresh vegetables. Picking zucchini and tomatoes for dinner was such a simple joy, and made us settle right in to the island’s way of life.
A chilled bottle of white wine, made from grapes from the vineyard out front, patiently waited in the fridge.
Ischia’s beaches were some of our favorite places to unwind after a day of driving around exploring.
Spiaggia di Cavagrado, a sharp right turn on the road down to Sant Antonio, is worth every step of the hike down. Its refreshing water and warm sand was such a sweet spot and the hours went by quickly snorkeling, swimming and napping under the orange sunumbrellas.
The thermal spas scattered across the island are a must if you’re looking to relax. The most common ones are Negombo and Poseidon Gardens, but for a unique free experience, visit the natural hot springs at Baia di Sorgeto, where volcanic waters bubble up into tide pools alternating between hot and cool spots in the sea.
From Forio, we later moved on to Sant Antonio & Maronti Beach.
The longest stretch of volcanic sand on the island has a handful of sea-front hotels, and this iconic beach has once served as a backdrop for films like The Talented Mr. Ripley. Sadly, the local businesses and accommodations with their old-time charm struggle with corrosion from the salty sea spray—it seems like the beach will be swallowed by the ocean in a few years as the water levels keep rising.
A hidden pathway through the cliffs on the left side of Maronti led us to Taverna Pietro Paolo, an absolute local gem of a restaurant tucked away from the beach. Can you believe it’s been running for 93 years—and I can confirm its THAT good. Checked cloth tables jam-packed with locals and their families, remember to make a reservation to secure a spot as the tables go fast. Their take on coniglio all’ischitana (rabbit stew) is a standout as well as any pasta dish on the menu. Pair it with a jug of local white wine with peaches.
The eastern side of the island brought us on a daytrip to Ischia Ponte, home to the striking Aragonese Castle, which sits dramatically on its rocky island. The castle, which dates back to the 5th century, feels like a time capsule of the island’s layered history, with its winding paths, ancient chapels, and panoramic views. This spot have also been featured in iconic cinema, like Cleopatra, featuring Elizabeth Taylor & Richard Burton.
Beyond the main harbor towns, Ischia retains a very local feel.
Just a smile and the basic “Ciao” and a “Grazie” gets you a long way. But learning a few key Italian phrases—“Quanto costa?” (How much does it cost?) or “Dov’è la fermata dell’autobus?” (Where is the bus stop?) will for sure help in breaking the ice.
Befriending the locals can lead to sharing life stories and get you the best recommendations, whether it’s a hidden beach or the best sunset spot for an aperitivo.
Ferries run frequently between the Ischia and Procida from Casamicciola Terme, taking about 15–30 minutes depending on the boat. Once you arrive, walk across the island to Marina Corricella, the postcard-perfect harbor with its candy-colored pastel buildings and fishing boats bobbing in the water. It’s the ideal spot for an espresso break.
Walk up to Terra Murata, perched on the highest point of the island, for panoramic views of the Gulf of Naples and a walk through historic cobblestone streets.
To cool off, head to Chiaiolella Beach for a refreshing swim or a lazy afternoon under the sun. Nearby, you can take a stroll along the Vivara Bridge, which connects Procida to the tiny, nature reserve of Vivara Island. Procida is compact, but steep at places, so wear comfortable shoes and give yourself time to simply wander. If you spend the full day at Procida, consider exploring the less touristy Marina di Chiaiolella, a charming harbor filled with local restaurants and bars, or take a walk to the Faro (lighthouse) on Punta Pioppeto for a sunset view.
Tucked high in the mountains, Serrara Fontana became a surprise highlight of the trip. Up there, the air is cooler, the views are wider, and life slows down even more. One evening, we found ourselves at Bar La Floreana, a small, unassuming café with a terrace that overlooks the island. Watching the Euro Cup finale on a tiny TV with the locals, sharing cheers and groans over beers and Towers of Pizza (see what I did there), was one of those special moments.
Later in the week, we stumbled into a town festival. With fairy lights strung across the square, live music and performances, and endless trays of local sausages & wine being passed around. The simplicity of it all, paired with the breathtaking mountain views and fireworks to round it all off, made it unforgettable.
If you’re looking for an authentic slice of Italian island life, this is it.
Top 5 Sights/Spots Not to Be Missed
Aragonese Castle (Ischia Ponte): A dramatic volcanic fortress steeped in history with panoramic views. Spend the day at one of the beach clubs in Ischia Ponte with views overlooking the castle.
Spiaggia di San Montano (Lacco Ameno): A serene beach perfect for swimming with a termic bath close to the beach.
Monte Epomeo (Serrara Fontana): Hike to the summit for breathtaking views across the island and beyond.
Spiaggia di Cavagrado: (Sant Antonio) A “hidden” gem by the bus stop at Sant Antonio, perfect for a day on the beach without the crowds.
La Mortella Gardens (Forio): A lush botanical oasis created by composer William Walton and his wife.
Top 5 Restaurants in Ischia
Taverna Pietro Paolo (Maronti Beach/Sant Antonio): My favorite spot! I can’t stop raving about this place. Known for their incredible rabbit ragù, typical for Ischia.
La Vigna di Alberto (Serrara Fontana): Authentic farm-to-table dining with spectacular views of the island.
Il Pizzicotto (Forio): A casual and authentic spot for pizza, nothing fancy - but the pizza speaks for itself.
Ristorante & Bar La Baia (Forio): The more casual sea-facing restaurant at Mezzatorre Hotel, serving fresh local flavors with stunning views.
Ristorante Saturnino (Forio): Amazing seafood with stunning sunset views at the Forio harbour.
Top 5 Dishes or Drinks to Try in Ischia (that is not Napolitan Pizza)
Coniglio all’Ischitana: Rabbit slow-cooked with tomatoes, wine, and herbs—Ischia’s signature dish.
Zucchini alla Scapece: Fried zucchini marinated in vinegar and mint, a local summer favorite.
Linguine con cozze e vongole: Pasta with mussels - no words needed.
Limoncello or Granita de Limone: When in Italy!
Biancolella Wine with peaches: A crisp, white wine unique to the island’s volcanic soils, ask for the version served with sweet peaches.
