Capri - Leica Q3
In a world that often moves at a relentless pace, there's something incredibly liberating about setting off on a solo journey.
For the last couple of years, I’ve treated myself to a yearly birthday trip to reflect and celebrate. If not completely on my own, then with a friend or two (after having children, even a girl’s trip feels like a solo adventure without two mini-me’s at hip height).
I had heard stories of Capri’s irresistible allure, from its history to its turquoise water and stunning landscapes. My three-day visit to this iconic destination not only introduced me to the timeless charm of the island but definitely also left me longing for more.
Collaboration disclaimer // I rarely travel without my camera, and for this trip, I was graciously allowed by Leica to borrow and test their newest model, the Leica Q3. It was a perfect companion, light and handy for my days of walking up and down Capri - all in all, I rounded around 55.000 steps with both my camera shoulder and sanity intact!
The 28mm lens with in-camera zoom as well as the tilt screen proved invaluable when capturing shots from tricky angles. All the photographs in this journal have been shot on the Q3, allowing me to bring Capri's beauty to life through the lens.
First things first.
As I landed at Naples airport I quickly made my way with taxi down to the ferry terminal at the harbor. Large groups of tourists and locals were lined up next to the ticket stands, all waiting to board the next ferry to get away from the city’s sweaty hustle. After about an hour of sailing, we arrived at Marina Grande.
Capri felt really safe for solo traveling, especially coming directly from rough Naples, which stood in strong contrast to the immediate sanctuary that Capri offered.
The heart of Capri, the Piazzetta, lies at the top of the funicular station and is the start of the busy shopping streets.
A cherry on top of Capri.
Il Capri Hotel stands as a living testament to Capri's rich history. The light pink facade, with the iconic red sun umbrellas of this neo-Gothic palazzo is hard to miss. It first opened as a hotel in 1899 and has recently re-openened after undergoing a stunning transformation, effortlessly merging the nostalgia of the past with the sophistication of the present. With only 21 rooms, it has an intimate, homey atmosphere.
After quickly dropping off my bags, I headed back down to Marina Grande. As a birthday treat, I had booked a private gozzo tour with a skipper for a few hours to really get to experience the island from the sea. As the afternoon sun shimmered in the water, we sailed around the island exploring the majestic views of the Faraglioni rocks, zigzagging our way between the many grottoes nestled amongst the island’s rugged cliffs.
The experience of sailing on a wooden boat reminded me of my childhood, reminiscing days spent sailing and fishing with my grandfather. I wholeheartedly recommend this adventure; they had thoughtfully provided cold beverages, towels, and a treasure trove of stories and historical anecdotes about the island.
Once back on land, I checked into my room and decided to stay and enjoy the hotel for the rest of the evening. Ending the day with a italian feast for one at the hotel's own restaurant, Vesuvio. I enjoyed lobster pasta and a giant portion of tiramisu underneath the string lights on the rooftop, reading my book in the warm September night.
As I retired to the softest bed, I really felt like royalty, cocooned in luxury.
Perfect sunset spotting view from the room, with both Naples and Vesuvio in the horizon.
The next morning, as the first light of the sun bathed the island, I started the day really early to beat the large tourist groups soon arriving at the harbour. The best way to experience the island is to avoid the peak-hours (10AM-5PM), aim for early morning or late afternoon, when the sun is less intense and the majority of the day-tourists have left.
As I wandered the streets, lined with flower adorned alleyways, it became abundantly clear why this island has captivated the hearts of emperors and artists alike. Among those who found both inspiration and refuge here was the renowned poet Pablo Neruda. He, too, was drawn to Capri's romantic vistas and artistic spirit, and his verses pay homage to the island's allure.
Amidst the bustling streets filled with honeymooning couples and the warmth and kind smiles from the locals, Capri truly embodies the essence of an "island in love".
Follow the walking paths through Via Camerelle & Via Tragara and don’t miss the lookout point at Belvedere Tragara. If you have comfy shoes on (and not sandals like me), go all the way up to Arco Naturale for a stunning view of the island.
As the sun stood high on the sky, lunch was a refreshing pause in the shade of the iconic La Fontelina beach club. The seafood ravioli and cool rosé wine felt divine after a morning full of exploring. Take the boat taxi back to Marina Piccola to avoid trekking all the way up the steps again. You’re worth it!
My second day on the island was fully dedicated to exploring Capri's renowned beach clubs. Bagni Internazionali, Da Luigi, and La Canzone del Mare, each with their own unique charm and nostalgia. The sun lounger and rainbow umbrella came as a much-needed break from the Mediterranean sun, sipping Aperol Spritz, slowing down to the sea's gentle sound.
The beach club Bagni Internazionali with the iconic Faraglioni in the background.
No visit to Capri would be complete without an authentic Napolitan pizza. A short stop beyond the Piazzetta, i stumbled upon Al Grottino, you walk into a small dining room with arched ceilings and a great local ambiance - If you don’t have a reservation, go early as it quickly fills up and that for good reason. Another great spot is Le Grottelle, a hidden gem about 20 mins walk from the Piazzetta. The restaurant is perched at the side of the cliff and boasts a spectacular view of the Arco Naturale and the Amalfi Coast.
Iconic view of the clock tower and Piazzetta from the Il Capri hotel rooftop.
As my final morning arrived, it coincided with my birthday.
It was a bittersweet moment, knowing that my journey was coming to an end. Being on my feet so much the previous days, I decided to spend my birthday at a more quiet pace. I would however recommend a day visit to Anacapri, the other “large” town on the island, with a more homey and local feel. Take the chairlift up to Monte Solaro, walk around the blooming gardens of Villa San Michele, and definitely don’t miss watching the sunset from the Lido de Faro beach club.
After checking out, the hotel staff, ever so kind, encouraged me to still feel at home in the hotel thus granting me a last day of pure indulgence. I spent the hours lounging by the rooftop pool, whilst soaking in the Mediterranean sun, unburdened by the thought of departure.
