Copenhagen
I recently came into talks with another expat about what it is that truly makes Copenhagen such a special place to live and visit.
After a long and daunting winter, and on my 13th year as a local, I was inspired to see the city again in a new light, revisiting some of my favourite summer haunts and uncover hidden gems.
As the seasons shift from winter into spring, Copenhagen undergoes a fascinating metamorphosis, casting off the frosty gray blanket of winter to reveal a kaleidoscope of vibrant colours. The city awakens from its slumber and as the days lengthen and the temperature slowly goes up, Copenhagen rises with a renewed energy. Parks fills up with laughter and picnics, as locals and visitors bask in the gentle warmth of the Nordic sun.
The only right way to get around and experience the city is by bike. My Veloretti is my best friend during summer months, and as I embarked on my two wheeled tour the ville, I knew my first stop had to be at Islands Brygge, or more precisely Havnebadet.
Located on the banks of the Copenhagen waterfront, Havnebadet is a true haven for water enthusiasts all year around. As the temperature rises, the large lawns and open-air harbour bath offers a cool respite from the bustling city.
From there, it’s a quick and picturesque bikeride along the waterfront over to Refshaleøen, which hosts an impressive array of experiences, cultural, sporty and gastronomical.
To truly understand Copenhagen's essence, one must taste its pastries. Hidden on a side street just before arriving at Reffen, Lille Bakery lures us in with the sweet aroma of freshly baked bread and the allure of exquisite Danish pastries. Succumb to the temptation of kanelsnegler and buttery, flaky croissants. Yes, please!
An unexpected hidden gem on this side of the city is the bi-weekly weekend flea market in B&W hallerne. In an old warehouse lies a labyrinth of stalls, filled with vintage danish furniture, typewriters, porcelain and phone booths that transports you back in time.
You name it, they got it.
Whenever I travel, I always plan my trip around where I want to eat.
Food markets are literal heaven on earth for just that reason. Reffen, Copenhagen's OG street food market moved from its original location on Papirøen to Refshaleøen and has only come back stronger and better since.
As the day transitions to night, seek solace at La Banchina, one of my favourite hidden spots in the city. Here, a restaurant, bar, and swimming pier coexist in perfect harmony by the waterfront. Order a bottle of natural wine in the bar and soak in the last rays on the pier, this is the perfect spot to enjoy the 11PM summer sunsets that Scandinavia is known for.
Start the next day in one of the many cafés and restaurants Copenhagen has to offer. There is simply too many to fit them all in this guide but on Fredericiagade, close to Kongens Have, you can find some of the most sought after - not just by taste but also by appearance. The golden trifecta on the road is Atelier September, Apotek 57 and Bottega Barlie.
Bar hopping is so last year, welcome to Copenhagen where we café hop instead.
Of course, you can’t visit the city for the first time without seeing Nyhavn. But in all honesty, as sweet and picturesque as the colorful houses are, it’s a nightmare in the summer. The small cobbled streets are packed with tourists and locals are nowhere to be seen.
Instead, bike over to the heart of the Vesterbro district to Værnedamsvej, a charming bohemian street full of restaurants and shops. Have an espresso at Italo Caffé and watch the stylish crowds pass by.
A short bike ride away from Værnedamsvej, lies the newly opened Grand Joanne Hotel. Nestled amidst the Copenhagen skyline, the aesthetic design hotel also boasts an impressive rooftop bar. As it happened, on the day of my last visit, the Copenhagen marathon was passing by on the street in front of the hotel, and the panoramic view from the rooftop made for a perfect viewpoint down to the runners below.
Whether a local or a traveler, in Copenhagen, the shifting seasons serve as a reminder of the city's ability to adapt, transform, and charm year-round.
The winters bring forth hygge, intimacy, and introspection, while its summers unforgivingly burst forward with vibrant energy, embracing outdoor exploration, community gatherings, and the celebration of the sun.
Let’s leave this as “…to be continued”.
